So today was a very productive day. I’ve finally, err, finalized every component by visiting King’s Bicycle Store (Quiapo). Also got a professional bike fitting done at Bike King (Taguig) later that night :)

Here’s the final setup, after which, I’ll be discussing the reasons for changes/final decisions. This will also be the second to the last post about the bike in particular… the last would be a picture post with some bike porn!

• Frame: Orbea Alma Team (carbon fiber)
• Fork: Fox 32 F-RLC F120
• Wheelset: Mavic Crosstrail
• Groupset: Shimano XTR 970
  • BL / BR M975 brake set (SM-RT97 rotor)
  • CS-M970 cassettes
  • M-970 SGS (low-normal) rear derailleur
  • FD-971 Front Derailleur
  • (changed) ST-M975 DCL¹ shifters/brake levers
  • FC-M970 crankset
  • (finalized) XTR PD-M970 SPD pedals
• Seatpost: (finalized) Bontrager Race X Lite carbon
• Stem: (changed) Token 90mm alloy stem
• Handlebar: (changed) FSA² K-Force XC carbon w/ Lizard Skin Moab lock-on grips.
• Saddles: (finalized) Serfas Furano
• Tires: (finalized) Continental (tubed)

RapidFire vs. DCL

I initially had the RapidFire Plus system (tradiutional), but decided to go to DCL (newer) for a couple of reasons:

1. From what I’ve noticed, most of the debate is simply because majority is already used to the traditional way of shifting – hence naturally averse to DCL. It’s really more of an issue of “unlearning” habits, rather than one system being better than the other. Fortunately, I won’t be “unlearning” anything, so it doesn’t matter what system I use. Having said that, upon looking at how DLC works, I personally think it is more “intuitive” (all things being equal).
2. According to Shimano, a low-normal derailleur setup is best matched with a DCL system… though RapidFire would work just as well (only it’ll operate the opposite to what traditional cyclists are used to), I’m not about to challenge manufacturer recommended settings.
3. I’m a neat freak, so less is more for me. DCL integrates a shifter and brake lever into one component. So overall, from an aesthetic standpoint, I think the bike would look “neater” with DCL

Cockpit

I initially was offered a full cockpit set (bars/seatpost/stem) – which is ideal if you don’t want your bike to look chop-suey-like. Just like I first posted, I started with a Zeus carbon set with an alloy stem.³

Upon visiting King’s, they had an FSA set as an offering which was lighter than the Zeus components. I still ended up going chop-suey, and here’s why:

Seatpost

They had a Bontrager as a last stock, so it was on clearance and was considerably cheaper than its FSA counterpart. They both weighed the same, so I got the Bontrager

Stem

Unfortunately, they didn’t have an FSA alloy frame, but they did have a similar black Token branded one. I was surprised when the alloy stem actually weighed in lighter than the carbon FSA stem. So there was no contest there: I’d rather have a lighter alloy stem anyday. And since I was already using a different brand seatpost, it’s not like I was going after uniformity in that department.

Handlebar

I stuck with the FSA because it was the only choice and it was so light! Luckily, seatpost and handlebar both had that familiar carbon-fiber finish… so they looked very similar in spite of the different branding. And the stem is pretty small (and black) so hopefully nobody notices the Frankenstein nature of my cockpit.

Saddle

This was a suggestion from Jane (King’s). She advised against getting uber-expensive seats – because not all asses are created equal. If your ass is uncomfortable with a certain seat, it doesn’t matter if that seat cost 1k or 10k.

She suggested the Serfas Furano because it was cheap, it had good padding, a good surface area coverage (we’re about the same body type), had carbon and Ti components so it’s light, and it’s a known brand. She called it her “sulit seat.”

Tubless / Tubed Tires

Aliterations aside, my only concern(s) with tires at this point are durability and weight. I had initially though that tubeless tires were lighter… but then you still have to put internal sealant or something that basically adds the weight back. So tubeless and tubed essentially balance each other out. The only fact left was tubeless is harder to “save” when you’re in a real pinch (harder to pump air into, etc.).

In any case, my rims are said to be compatible for both types.